Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
